We got lost looking for the Fondation Louis Vuitton and stumbled into something stranger: Paris’s 19th-century Jardin d’Acclimatation. Once home to exotic animals and ethnographic exhibitions, today it’s a gently worn amusement park where peacocks roam and children eat cotton candy. In Paris, even the midways have history.
We went to Paris specifically for David Hockney. His sprawling exhibition at Fondation Louis Vuitton wasn’t a greatest-hits tour but a forward-leaning statement from an 87-year-old artist still expanding his canon. From Normandy landscapes to unsparing self-portraits, it became an unexpected meditation on continuity, aging, and showing up.
We had an empty Tuesday in Paris and zero expectations. What we found inside the former Gare d’Orsay was not just Impressionist greatest hits, but a full-scale encounter with an entire era—industrial ambition, empire, Rodin’s Gates of Hell, and a museum far larger than its reputation.